Views from the Cumbrian coast across the Solway estuary to Criffel a 570m hill in Dumfries and Galloway are worth savouring. This is a hill with a majestic outline that draws the eye to the west as you journey around the Cumbrian coastal plains on a Secret Solway Tour.
Looking across the Solway estuary to South West Scotland, the seasons and the changing light give differing personalities to Criffel. On a soft, calm misty morning Criffel can almost float in a suspended state above the estuary, seeming like ‘middle earth’ to those of a Tolkien persuasion. On summer evenings Criffel becomes a slumbering dragon with a wondrous fiery sun setting behind it. On stormy grey winter days Criffel turns into a foreboding and implacable being. Sometimes mystical, secret, or serene, and always changing, fascination for the mercurial nature of Criffel has made photographing this beautiful hill a favourite Secret Solway pastime.
The name Criffel is thought to be from Norse language, meaning ‘Crow’s hill’. With flanks covered in bog cotton,heather and bilberry, inhabited by skylarks, Criffel looking down over Loch Kindar and across the Solway Firth to Cumbria in England, has born witness to the deeds of many through the centuries. The lives of the Carvetti tribe or ‘Deer people’ who lived on the Cumbrian Solway plains and the Novantae tribe of south west Scotland would have been watched over by Criffel. As would the arrival of the Romans, and then the Vikings to the Solway shores. Viewing the passage of pilgrims, reivers, smugglers and others, Criffel has also born witness to the tragedy of lost lives of many fighters and travellers who through the ages failed to safely cross over the dangerous sands and waters of the Solway estuary. A hill with tales to tell and a reason for visiting the Cumbrian Secret Solway coast.
This is a photograph of Burgh marsh, near Burgh by Sands on the Cumbrian side of the Solway Firth, an isolated and windswept spot, where a lonely monument marks the death in 1307 of the Plantagenet king Edward the first. This is also the place where the legendary racehorse Red Rum, 3 times winner of the UK Grand National race, once paid a visit.
Burgh marsh has a long history of horse racing dating back to the 1690s. To raise money for Cancer research and to celebrate the racing history of the area the Burgh by Sands Cancer Research Charity committee, in 1978, decided they would organize a commemorative race meet to take place once more on the original course on the nearby marsh. Somebody suggested Red Rum the famous race horse, who by this time was retired from racing, should be invited to the Burgh Marsh race meet as an equine celebrity. A plan was hatched. Ginger McCain who had trained Red Rum was duly contacted. Nobody really thought that Ginger would agree to bringing this valuable horse to the village race meet, but much to everyone’s surprise – he did agree, and for the fee of £300 said that he would be pleased to transport his valuable ward to Burgh marsh race meet.
On the day of the races it was windy and wet in the morning and there was some concern about the impact of the weather on the racing. Everyone waited and looked out for the horsebox that would signal the arrival of the famous guest. Worried looks were beginning to spread across the faces of the organisers who had contacted newspapers and had journalists arriving to cover the story for the local press. Suddenly the horsebox appeared in the distance making it’s way through the country lanes to the gateway on to the Marsh. Red Rum had arrived. The sun came out. Crowds of people travelled from Carlisle and local villages to see the famous racer. All went to plan, the day was a huge success raising much money for Cancer Research, and local history was made – September 3rd 1978 the day when the famous Red Rum, giant celebrity of the horse racing world, spent the day as the star guest at Burgh marsh races.
At last it feels like spring has arrived. Longer days and warmer weather for walking next to the lovely Solway Estuary. The Barnacle geese have started heading north on their long flight to summer nesting sites. Chiffchaff and other summer migrants are beginning to arrive. Jackdaws are busy building nests. Wetland pools full of frogspawn and emerging tadpoles. Spring flowers, trees bursting into leaf. So much to see and a great time of year to explore the Cumbrian Solway coast and wetlands on a Secret Solway Tour.
If you are wearing lots of warm clothes, the cold, clear, frosty mornings of winter have been great for walking on the Solway salt marshes and along forgotten drovers lanes. A combination of the early morning light, frost and chance encounters with local inhabitants makes for magical moments.
Secret Solway Tours
This year has been particularly good for seeing Barnacle geese on the Solway.
The numbers on the Solway have risen to over 43,000, which is excellent news given how threatened this population of geese was some 30 or so years ago.
This year the geese seem to have been very amenable for folks who want to take photographs. Their use of spaces close to the road and near to concealed footpaths has been most helpful.
In a couple of months time the Barnacle geese will start to disappear from the Solway coastline as they once again make their long flight to Svalbard in the Arctic for the breeding season. This is a marker of seasonal change on the Solway, indicating a move out of winter and the arrival spring.
Secret Solway Tours
On first encounter this photograph of a rough grassy area with a big round shed situated behind it may not seem so interesting. When however, you find out that the rough grassy area in the photo is where generations of Solway families went to dig peat for use as fuel for heating their homes and for cooking their meals – and that the big round shed behind the rough grassland is a world war 2 aeroplane hanger and that planes stored in it were built in America for the British war effort, suddenly the picture starts to raise lots of questions. Which families went to this site to dig their peat? What tools did they use? How did they transport the peat to their homes? What else was peat used for? …. Or – why was this air hanger built in such a remote area of northern England? Who delivered the planes from the USA? Where did the pilots and maintenance crews live and where did they come from? The Solway area has many unexpected secrets and stories to share. http://solwayconnections.co.uk/secret-solway/